We always like to go to smaller, less-visited places — not just to avoid the teeming crowds, but also because we find that smaller galleries and churches and palazzi can be more humanly interesting and (not feeling overwhelmed) more enjoyable. Three final highlights of our stay have been seeing a fine exhibition Artemisia Gentileschi and Her Times, visiting the small but stunningly frescoed Oratorio del Gonfalone, and going to the beautiful Villa Farnesina in Trastevere (above) which has frescoes by (among others) Raphael. Even the exhibition wasn’t busy, and we were the only visitors to the Oratorio (used for evening concerts and other events — you knock on a door in the street behind, and we were shown it by the President of the confraternity). All wonderful.
And for when you’ve finished feeding the soul, a top restaurant recommendation: Pierluigi.
Oh, and a pro-tip for visitors to Rome: download the Mytaxi app. Works a treat and makes getting around so easy.